When most gardeners think about flowers, spring and summer usually come to mind. But with the right planning, your garden can continue to bloom beautifully well into fall. Planting fall blooming flowers in your garden not only extends the season of color and creates a vibrant autumn landscape, but also supports pollinators as other food sources decline with cooler weather.

Fall blooming annuals can brighten containers, borders, and beds. You'll usually find similar garden center selections as in springtime, as most of these plants thrive in cooler temperatures. Most annuals will bloom through fall with the proper care, but long, hot summers can make maintaining them difficult. Here we're focusing on fall blooming annuals you're likely to find at your garden center for autumn sales, for those of you that need to replace worn-out summer annuals, or just want to redo your beds or containers for a fresh fall ambience.

Frost-hardy and available in almost every color, with or without "faces." The smaller flowers of violas add a more delicate texture compared to pansies--mixing them in the same container is very effective. There are also viola varieties that are more spreading or trailing, making them useful in hanging baskets and for covering larger areas. Excellent partners for spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils and tulips, creating a carpet of color from which the taller flowers emerge. Pansies and violas are shallow rooted, so may be planted directly on top of the bulbs without disturbing their growth.

Plant in rich, well-drained soil in sun to part sun. Don't forget to water in winter if there's no rain for a week or so--dry plants will fare less well in frost and freeze conditions, especially those in containers. Don't worry about snow, though, as its insulating properties are usually beneficial. That being said, don't pile shovelled snow on your pansies, especially if it may be mixed with ice melting products which are often full of damaging salts. A 5-10-5 slow-release fertilizer is recommended, as higher nitrogen can encourage soft foliage that is prone to disease. Pansies and violas are not particularly heavy feeders, so an application at planting and in early spring should be sufficient, but you can supplement with a lower nitrogen liquid fertilizer if you desire.

Both should be kept deadheaded for best blooming. Violas tend to reseed better, so you may want to leave a few seedheads to promote that. Pinch the flower stem all the way to the main stem rather than pinching just behind the flower head for a tidy look. In most climates these are better planted in fall (ideally four to six weeks before a killing frost) to develop a strong root system, allowing them to return in spring with an abundant floral display. Once the ground has frozen, mulch to prevent frost heave. In freezing weather they may not bloom, but will hunker down, remaining green and flowering when temperatures warm a bit. Violas tend to bloom better in winter than most pansies; both should continue to bloom until temperatures stay above 70 to 75 degrees.

If plants become leggy in the heat, pinching the whole plant back and providing shade in the hot afternoon may prolong their life. For warmer zones, choose more heat tolerant pansy varieties such as 'Majestic Giants', 'Matrix', 'Colossu's, 'Imperial', and 'Crown' series, or the 'Halo' and 'ColorMax' series of violas.

Vertical spikes of color that tolerate light frosts, in solids and bicolors of almost every shade except blue. Most are actually tender, short-lived perennials (Zones 7-10), but are usually grown as annuals for spring and fall bloom. They may flower all summer in cooler regions, and in winter where temperatures stay above freezing. They may sometimes reseed themselves.

Garden center offerings tend toward compact varieties growing up to 12 inches, such 'Floral Showers' and 'Snapshot', or the even shorter 6-inch high 'Candy Showers' with a spreading, somewhat trailing habit that makes it useful for hanging baskets. The 'Twinny' series bears beautiful double "butterfly" flowers on 10-12" plants. 'Liberty Classic' and 'Sonnet' are taller growing types at 18-24" high that may sometimes be found. Tall cut-flower snapdragons such as 'Rocket,' 'Chantilly,' 'Potomac, 'Maryland' and others usually need to be grown from seed planted in spring -- growers prefer to offer blooming plants and the up to 60 inch height of these plants in flower makes them unmanageable in retail-sized annual packs and pots.

Plant in full to part sun in moist, rich, well-drained soil. Deadhead to promote reblooming on bedding types--just pinch the stem back below the level of the flowers. Snapdragons are relatively light feeders, a 10-10-10 formula applied every 3 weeks during the growing season should be sufficient. Deer tend to avoid these, so they make an excellent fall and spring substitute for pansies in Bambi prone areas.

Also called 'pot marigold,' these bright 2-3" daisy-shaped flowers can last until hard freezes. As these have been historically used for their medicinal properties, you may find these retailed with both herbs and annuals. Yellow or orange is most often found, but white, apricot, bicolors, and double flowers are also available. Blooms will open and close with the sun.

Grow in average, well-drained soil in full sun to part sun. Give consistent moisture until established, at which point they have a bit of drought tolerance. Best blooming will be with regular watering but overly wet plants are prone to rot, so be sure the drainage is adequate. In warmzer zones you may want to plant where they will be shaded in the hot afternoon, as they are not particularly heat-tolerant. Cessation of blooming is to be expected with consistent temperatures above 80-85 degrees; plants may be pinched back in mid-summer. Flowering should resume in the cooler days of fall; they withstand light freezes and can survive down to 25 degrees.

Plants typically grow 15-24" high, and are easily grown from transplants or seed. Deadheading is a must for best blooming, but they will reseed politely if allowed. Deer and rabbits tend to avoid them. Suitable for beds, borders, containers, cottage gardens, meadow gardens, cut flower gardens, pollinator gardens, and herb and vegetable gardens.

Note two important things: One, while you may hear the flowers are edible, that doesn't mean they taste good. They have a slight bitterness that perhaps makes them more suitable for light garnishing or as a natural colorant, rather than a salad ingredient. Two, they are often grown as a "trap crop," meaning that aphids and other bugs are very attracted to them, and therfore those nasties leave your nearby plants alone. However, many beneficials like ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverflies that EAT those nasties are also attracted to them, so things hopefully even out. These are terrific fall blooming flowers to plant in your vegetable garden among the lettuce and broccoli (and other brassicas) for this reason!

'Pacific Beauty' has better heat tolerance; 'Porcupine Mix' has charming quilled flowers in yellow and orange, seeds of these and other varieties available from Baker Creek Heirloom Seed. 'BonBon Mix' is a 12" tall yellow/orange mix often found in small pots at retail.

Personally, I've never understood planting heat-loving celosia for fall in my zone 7, but the plethora of garden centers prominently displaying it for autumn sales must mean I'm wrong. I guess I prefer plants that will last a little longer, but then folks plant a lot of coleus in the fall, too, and that's even LESS cold-tolerant than celosia.

If you're ok with some foliar damage when temperatures dip below 40 degrees and complete decimation with the first frost, then the fluffy, feathery plumes of C. plumosa in burgundy, red, orange, pink, or yellow will make quite a splash in your containers. There's also the unique spiky pink or purple blooms of C. spicata, and the completely weird and wonderful convoluted blooms of C. cristata, resembling nothing as much as a plush, velvet-covered brain. Well, I guess that one IS especially appropriate for the season after all, especially with variety names like 'Dracula.' Among each group there are varieties with dark, red to bronze foliage that adds even more seasonal drama. Some varieties you'll come across in fall, in addition to 'Dracula,' include the C. spicata 'Intenz' series in magenta or purple, and 'Dragon's Breath,' with large red plumes and burgundy red leaves.

FYI, don't expect to find cultivars like 'Intenz, ' and many other mid-size spicata types in market packs or from seed. These are grown from cuttings which increases the initial cost for the grower, so usually 6 inch pots are the common minimum size. The 8-inch high 'Kosmo' series is much smaller, but can be seed propagated so you might run across that one, and many of the large growing (4' high) spicatas are available from seed, including 'Celway,' with a rich rainbow of hues.

If I should decide to plant celosia in fall, I would not be able to resist placing the red, yellow, and orange plumes in a shallow bowl inside my firepit -- when not in use, of course! For Halloween fun, plant cristata types popping over the top opening of a hollowed out pumpkin, and use for your scarecrow's head. 

Dianthus may be perennial or biennial. There are perennial Dianthus that bloom in spring with some flowering through summer. These tend to form a mat of short, grassy, evergreen blue-green foliage with individual or sprays of just a few flowers per stem, and include cheddar pinks, maiden pinks, and carnations. There are also biennial types like Sweet William (D. barbatus) that have wider green foliage with a mounding habit and larger rounded heads of flowers. These may persist in gardens by reseeding.

The varieties usually sold as annuals are Dianthus chinensis, Chinese pinks, or a D. chinensis and D. barbatus hybrid, with narrow green foliage that is often evergreen, bearing stems with small clusters of flowers, growing about 8 inches high overall. Technically a short-lived perennial, they do not enjoy heat and humidity but may winter over as far north as zone 6 or even 5. Grow in average, well-drained soil in full sun to light shade - afternoon shade may be helpful in hot summer areas. Plants may cease blooming with consistent temperatures above 80 degrees, but should survive to bloom in fall if drainage is adequate.

Deadheading dianthus can be confusing, as all the buds in a cluster will not open at the same time. You can gently clip or pinch out the faded flower within it's green calyx from the rest of the cluster, or you can wait until all the flowers in the cluster have bloomed and cut back the stem just above the next set of leaves. If flowering stops completely for the summer plants can be gently sheared back if needed.

Telstar, Ideal, Floral Lace, and Parfait series are often found in garden centers in small pots and packs, with blooms in red, white, pink, purple, and bicolors. These "annual" types tend to be without fragrance, unlike many other species of dianthus.

These related plants that resemble small snapdragons enjoy the cooler temperatures of spring and fall and prefer full to part sun, with afternoon shade appreciated in hot climates. Nemesias are generally mounding plants from 12 to 16 inches high with often fragrant flowers in almost any color including bicolors. Diascia blooms in shades of pink to peach to orange, with a mounding habit to about 8 inches high. Excellent container specimens to mix with pansies and other fall blooming flowers. 'Sunsatia' nemesia is a more heat-tolerant series, and 'Bluebird' nemesia has been reported to bloom in summer in the deep south.

This long-time favorite adds gentle fragrance, subtle color and delicate texture to beds and containers. The sweet, honey-scented pink, purple, or white flowers create a ground-hugging carpet of blooms, and soften the edges of pots and planters. Plant in full to part sun.

This is another tender perennial, hardy in zones 10-11.  I have seen them in full, gorgeous bloom in November in gardens near the upper Chesapeake Bay. Granted, the location is a microclimate warmed by the large body of water, and the average first frost date for the area is November 7, but it's still impressive. Angelonia can tolerate brief periods of temperatures as low as 30 degrees, so it's definitely one to put on your fall garden list. Best grown in full sun and moist, well-drained soil, but tolerates light shade. 

Angelonia's flowers resemble smaller snapdragons, and the plant is sometimes called 'summer snapdragon.' Upright plants boast showy flower spikes in many shades of blue, pink, and white, with newer cultivars in red and even black hues. and can reach 15 to 40 inches high depending on the variety.  Shorter, semi-cascading types have also been bred that are more suitable for hanging baskets or as a filler/spiller in container gardens. Butterflies love it, and deer don't seem to bother it.

Wondering what to expect from your annuals in fall? Below is a quick run-down of the cold tolerance of some popular annuals. Note that plants in the fall are a bit less susceptible to cold temperatures than they are after just being planted in spring, as they've had a chance to establish and acclimate, barring a sudden, severe drop in temperature, that is.

• Frost-Tender Annuals: Damage at 32°F — killed by frost: Zinnias, impatiens, coleus, begonias, vinca, sweet potato vine, caldium, torenia, gomphrena, amaranthus, morning glory, moonflower, black-eyed Susan vine, basil, canna (top growth). These cannot handle even a light frost. Tissue turns black and mushy after freezing.

• Slightly Frost-Tolerant Annuals: Tolerate 30–32°F for short periods: Marigolds, cosmos, petunias, celosia, salvias, nicotiana, geranium, cleome. A very light frost might damage flowers/leaves but often won’t kill them outright unless prolonged.

• Cool-Season Hardy Annuals: Survive 26–28°F: Pansies, violas, snapdragons, dianthus, osteospermum, alyssum, calendula, dusty miller, nemesia, diascia. These can bounce back from light freezes; ideal for shoulder-season plantings.

• Very Hardy Annuals (Cold-Tolerant Biennials/Short-Lived Perennials Used as Annuals): Tolerate 20–25°F or even lower: Ornamental kale and cabbage, larkspur, stock, sweet peas, poppies, bachelor’s buttons, clarkia, nigella, godetia, phacelia. These often overwinter in mild climates and shrug off hard frosts.

General Rules of Thumb:

• Light frost = 29–32°F (-2 to 0°C): only hardy types survive without damage.

• Moderate frost = 25–28°F (-4 to -2°C): kills most tender annuals.

• Hard frost = below 24°F (-5°C): only the hardiest cool-season annuals survive.

• Layer for impact: Use tall perennials and grasses at the back, medium shrubs in the middle, and low annuals in front.

• Contrast colors: Pair fiery oranges, reds, and yellows with brilliant blues and purples and chartreuse foliage, and combine silvery-hued foliage with cool purples, pinks, and whites for dramatic effect. Deep, dark foliage and variegated foliage uplifts either colorscape.

• Combine textures: Mix bold-leaved and fine-foliaged plants, vertical upright habits with mounded plants, and vary the shapes of flowers. 

• Use containers: Frost-tolerant annuals like pansies, violas, ornamental kale, and snapdragons brighten patios, courtyards, and entries. Containers can also be an effective seasonal fill set directly in the garden among plants that are out of bloom or dormant. Small gourds and pumpkins can be added to patio pots and windowbox plantings for a bright pop of color. 

• Incorporate verticals: Trellises, arbors, and pergolas can carry fall-blooming vines, adding height and structure.

• Plan for late bloom: When designing your garden, remember to include perennials or allocate space for annuals that flower from September through November to maximize seasonal color.

A well-planned fall garden can rival the colors of spring and summer. By selecting a mix of hardy perennials, cool-season annuals, grasses, and climbing plants, you can create a vibrant, textured landscape that attracts pollinators, brightens containers, and adds a cozy charm to your yard. Fall blooms aren’t just an afterthought—they can be the grand finale of your gardening season.