A well-chosen garden structure can transform the experience of a landscape. A pergola creates a passageway. An arch frames a view. A trellis adds an eye-catching focal point. A series of obelisks or rose pillars introduce vertical rhythm to a border.
Clematis completes the picture.
Best Clematis for Arches, Trellises, and Pillars
With flowers ranging from enormous saucers to delicate bells and nodding urns, clematis can soften a metal structure without hiding its architectural character. Depending on the species or cultivar, a clematis may bloom in spring, early summer, midsummer or fall—and some can flower for months.
The genus also offers remarkable diversity in habit. Some clematis remain compact enough for a small obelisk or container, while vigorous species can cover a large arch or pergola. Some thrive in full sun; others are excellent choices for bright part shade. And because clematis are divided into three pruning groups, gardeners can choose between plants that require almost no pruning and those that are simply cut back hard each year.
The key to success is matching the clematis's mature size and pruning group to the structure and location.
Clematis Form, Foliage, and Flowers
Clematis are not conventional twining vines. Most climbing types ascend by using their leaf petioles—the slender stalks that connect the leaves to the stems—to wrap around narrow supports.
That distinction matters when selecting a trellis or arch. A clematis generally performs best when it has a network of relatively thin horizontal and vertical members to grab. On a structure with wide, smooth bars guide the stems manually until they find a suitable point of contact. Clematis can benefit from wire lattice inserts when the support members are too large for the leaf petioles to grasp easily.
Once established, clematis can create a remarkably light, natural effect. The foliage is usually composed of opposite, simple to compound leaves, with forms ranging from deeply divided to trifoliate or pinnate. Most garden clematis are deciduous, although some species are evergreen in suitable climates.
Flowers may be:
- 1 to 8 inches wide
- Star-shaped
- Bell-shaped
- Tulip-shaped
- Nodding and lantern-like
- Single, semi-double or double, or in clusters
- Fragrant or virtually scentless
Many also produce attractive silky or feathery seed heads after flowering, adding a second season of interest.
Why Grow Clematis on Garden Structures?
A clematis can be planted in a border without a formal support, but a well-designed structure gives the plant—and the garden—a much stronger visual role.
- Arches
A clematis-covered arch creates a living gateway at a home’s entrance or between garden rooms. Use vigorous cultivars for a substantial arch or choose a compact variety for a smaller entry.
An arch is particularly effective when it crosses a path. The structure establishes the architecture; the clematis provides the seasonal softness.
- Trellises
A wall-mounted or freestanding trellis is ideal for clematis that have a more upright or moderately vigorous habit.
Trellises can:
- Frame a doorway
- Hide an unattractive wall, fence, or utility feature
- Create a garden backdrop for a fountain, statue, bench or seating area
- Add privacy
- Give a narrow border vertical interest
- Rose Pillars and Obelisks
Clematis is especially beautiful on a freestanding pillar or obelisk because the flowers can be viewed from all sides. Despite their name, rose pillars are not limited to roses, and growing roses and clematis together on a structure is a deservedly popular and effective combination.
Clematis-covered rose pillars, obelisks and tuteurs act as self-contained vertical garden features that lift color up above surrounding plantings, very valuable when planting space is limited. They work particularly well as:
- Border focal points
- Repeated accents along a long bed
- Entryway markers
- Centerpieces in perennial gardens
- Thrillers in container gardens
Clematis Growing Conditions
Although individual species differ, most garden clematis share several basic cultural requirements.
Light: Give the Flowers Sun and the Roots Shade
The classic clematis rule is "head in the sun, feet in the shade".
Most climbing clematis perform best when the foliage and flowers receive approximately six or more hours of sunlight, although many tolerate part shade. Afternoon shade can be particularly helpful in hot climates, and light shade can preserve the delicate hues of some varieties.
In very shady locations, flowering will generally be reduced. For bright woodland edges, morning sun or filtered light, choose species and cultivars specifically known for part-shade tolerance.
The roots, meanwhile, prefer a cool, evenly moist environment.
You can shade the root zone with:
- Low-growing perennials, groundcovers, or annuals
- A 2–3 inch layer of organic mulch kept away from the crown
- Stones or other garden materials that do not trap excessive moisture around the crown
Avoid planting a clematis where the root zone becomes intensely hot and dry.
Soil: Fertile, Moist, and Well-Drained
Clematis appreciate deep, fertile soil with good drainage and consistent moisture. The ideal soil is rich in organic matter but never waterlogged, providing both moisture and oxygen. Improve heavy clay with organic matter and improve excessively sandy soil by incorporating compost or other suitable organic amendments.
Clematis generally prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil, with approximately pH 6.5–7.5 being a useful target range. Soil testing is preferable to guessing or automatically adding lime as unsuitable pH can contribute to nutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
How to Plant Clematis
Clematis benefit from careful planting because they can remain in the garden for decades.
- Put the support in place before planting. This is especially important for obelisks and rose pillars because installing a structure after a clematis has become established can damage the root system or break stems.
- Prepare a generous planting hole. Prepare a hole approximately twice as wide and deep as the container. Improve the soil with compost or other organic matter where appropriate but maintain good drainage.
- Plant slightly deeper than the original container level. Planting depth is one of the most important details in establishing a healthy clematis. For many cultivated clematis, particularly large-flowered types, planting the crown approximately 2–3 inches below soil level is advised. This places dormant buds below ground, encouraging new stems from the base and potentially helping the plant recover if stems are damaged by clematis wilt.
- Water thoroughly and mulch the root zone. Keep mulch away from the actual crown and stems. Keep newly planted clematis consistently moist.
- Train the young shoots immediately. Gently guide them toward the support. Clematis stems can be surprisingly fragile when young. Handle the vine carefully during planting and training, and avoid damaging stems with cultivation tools. Physical injury can increase problems with wilt.
Expert Tip: Prune Young Clematis for Better Structure
Regardless of pruning group, a newly planted clematis can benefit from an initial cutback. If the plant has only one or two long stems, cutting it back to approximately 6–12 inches above the ground can encourage several strong shoots from the base.
This may delay some flowers in the first season, but it often produces a much better-shaped plant in subsequent years. RHS recommends an initial pruning of newly planted clematis to encourage multiple stems and better coverage of the support.
For a pillar or obelisk, this is especially valuable because you want several stems developing from the base rather than one long vine that flowers only at the top.
- Watering Clematis
Clematis need consistent moisture, particularly while becoming established and during hot or dry weather. Water deeply when the upper soil begins to dry rather than relying on frequent shallow sprinkling.
Pay particular attention to:
- Newly planted clematis
- Container-grown plants
- Plants growing beside paved areas or walls and under eaves where rain is limited
- Vines competing with established shrubs or roses
- Plants during prolonged summer drought
Water the soil rather than the foliage when possible. Keeping leaves dry can help reduce fungal disease pressure. Do not allow the soil to repeatedly dry completely, but avoid constantly saturated soil.
- Feeding Clematis
Clematis are relatively vigorous plants and benefit from adequate nutrition. A practical approach is to incorporate compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the planting soil and apply a balanced fertilizer in spring according to the product label.
Avoid excessive nitrogen. Too much nitrogen can encourage lush vegetative growth at the expense of flowering. The goal is healthy, sturdy stems and abundant flowers—not a giant mass of foliage.
Below: Closeup of clematis petiole, the thin leaf stalk that must wrap around a support in order for it to climb. Supports with rods larger than about 1/2" wide may require tying in.
Below: "Typical" clematis blooms are flat, open-faced, and star-shaped, but several species bear flowers that are nodding bells or lantern shapes.
Below: Clematis 'Venosa Violacea' creates a shower of purple on this wall arch.
Below: Clematis 'Rouge Cardinal' on Classic Garden Elements Obelisk I in a perennial bed. It would be difficult to provide this much color at a height above the other plantings without the use of a flowering vine on such a support.
Below: Planting perennials or annuals around the base of clematis helps to shade the roots. Here, pink geraniums with newly planted purple clematis.
Below: Clematis should be planted as carefully as any shrub, as they can last for decades with proper care. Provide a large hole and plant most varieties a bit deeper than they were in the original pot.
Below: Newly planted clematis, especially those with only one or two stems, benfit from initial pruning to encourage new shoots from the crown.
Below: Clematis wilt is a disease that causes wilting and browning or blackening of stems and foliage. It occurs more frequently on large-flowered Group 2 hybrids and is less common on C viticella and other species.
Clematis Pests and Diseases
Clematis are generally dependable, but several problems deserve attention.
Clematis Wilt
Clematis wilt is the disease gardeners fear most. A previously healthy vine may suddenly wilt, with stems becoming brown or black. Large-flowered Group 2 hybrids are particularly susceptible. Small-flowered viticella hybrids, C. alpina and C. montana are generally more resilient, making them useful choices where wilt has been a recurring problem.
Good cultural practices include:
- Planting deeply
- Avoiding stem injury
- Providing good air circulation
- Keeping roots evenly moist
- Removing affected stems promptly
- Disinfecting pruning tools before pruning, and after cutting diseased tissue
A wilted clematis is not necessarily a dead clematis. If the crown remains healthy, new shoots can emerge from below the soil.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew appears as a white, dusty coating on leaves and stems. It is more likely under conditions of poor air circulation and stressed plants.
Improve conditions by:
- Avoiding overcrowding
- Training stems rather than allowing a tangled mass
- Watering at soil level
- Avoiding unnecessary overhead irrigation
- Providing adequate sunlight
- Removing badly affected foliage when practical
- Other Diseases
Common Clematis Pests
Often, healthy clematis can tolerate modest pest damage without intervention. Regular inspection is preferable to routine spraying.
Watch young shoots and foliage for:
- Aphids
- Slugs & snails
- Earwigs
- Vine weevils
- Scale
- Spider mites
- Caterpillars
While considered relatively deer and rabbit resistant due to the bitter compounds in the leaves, tender young shoots may be browsed. Young plants are more likely to be attractive to rabbits, as they feed at ground level.
Understanding Clematis Pruning Groups 1, 2,and 3
It may seem confusing at first, but one should not be intimidated by the designation of clematis pruning groups. Clematis pruning becomes relatively straightforward when you know when your plant flowers and whether it blooms on old or new wood.
The three pruning groups are based on flowering time and the age of the wood that carries the flowers. Note that these are not “rules,” but flexible guidelines that allow for managing size and adjusting the blooming period and flower placement to best suit the structure.
Group 1: Early Flowering on Old Wood
Group 1: Early Flowering on Old Wood
Typical bloom period: winter and spring
Pruning: After flowering, only if needed
Examples: Clematis alpina, macropetala and montana types.
- Group 1 clematis flower on stems produced the previous year. They generally need little pruning. After flowering, remove dead or damaged stems and shorten growth only as needed to shape and keep the plant within its allotted space.
- If major renovation is necessary, prune immediately after flowering—not in late winter—because the following spring's flower buds are already developing on the old stems.
- For vigorous C. montana, pruning immediately after flowering is particularly important if the vine is growing on a structure that it could quickly outgrow.
Group 2: Blooms on Old and New Wood
Group 2: Blooms on Old and New Wood
Bloom Period: Usually late spring/early summer, with some cultivars reblooming later
Pruning: Light pruning in late winter/early spring; optional pruning after first bloom
Examples: Many of the classic large-flowered hybrids such as 'Nelly Moser', 'The President', 'Doctor Ruppel', ‘Henryi’
- They flower primarily from old wood in early summer and may produce a second flush on new growth later in the season.
- In late winter, remove dead or weak growth and cut healthy stems back to a strong pair of buds.
- After the first flush, selectively shorten flowering stems if you want to encourage additional growth and flowers.
- If you prune a Type 2 clematis more lightly, you can retain more old wood and encourage flowers higher on an arch or trellis. If you prune it more substantially, you may encourage new growth lower on the structure and shift flowering later.
- Avoid hard pruning Group 2 plants if the early display is important to you.
Group 3: Flowers on New Wood
Group 3: Flowers on New Wood
Typical bloom period: summer through fall
Pruning: Hard prune in late winter/early spring
Examples: Clematis viticella, C. texensis, ‘Polish Spirit’, ‘Etoile Violette’, ‘ Princess Diana’, ‘Jackmanii Superba’, ‘Betty Corning’, ‘Burning Love’, ‘Sweet Summer Love’, ‘Duchess of Albany’
Group 3 is arguably the easiest group to prune and includes many excellent choices for smaller arches, obelisks and rose pillars because the entire framework can be renewed every year. This is particularly useful when you want flowers distributed over fresh growth rather than maintaining a permanent woody framework.
- As these produce flowers on new growth made during the current season, prune in late winter or early spring.
Cut the previous year's stems back to the lowest pair of healthy buds, generally about 6–12 inches above ground level. This annual reset encourages fresh growth from the base and prevents the plant from developing a woody, bare lower section with all its flowers at the top.
- For a tall arbor or overhead structure, you can deliberately leave longer stems. Again, the objective is not to blindly follow a prescribed rule, but to prune strategically to create the flowering shape you want.
Choosing a Clematis for a Garden Structure
When shopping for clematis, gardeners often begin with flower color, but we recommend approaching clematis selection from the structure outward.
Start with these five questions:
- How tall is the structure?
A 4-foot obelisk needs a compact cultivar. A large pergola can accommodate a vigorous vine.
- How much sun does the site receive?
Full sun gives the greatest range of choices, while part shade requires more selective cultivar choice.
- When do you want flowers?
Group 1 gives early-season flowers. Group 2 provides an early flush and potentially a second display. Group 3 excels from summer into fall.
- How much pruning do you want to do?
Group 3 is the easiest: cut it back hard in late winter and start over.
- What flower form suits the garden?
For instance, large, showy blooms for a formal garden; delicate bells for a cottage or romantic garden; tulip-shaped blossoms for something unusual; small flowers for a naturalistic effect or woodland garden
Clematis Species: From Nodding Bells to Clouds of White Flowers
Before choosing a cultivar, it helps to understand the extraordinary range of flowers found within the clematis genus. The "traditional" clematis gardeners think of are most often the large-flowering Group 2 hybrids or the slightly smaller-flowered hybrids in Group 3, with open, flat, star-like blooms, but there are many other options that deserve consideration.
Clematis alpina: Delicate Bells for Spring
Clematis alpina is one of the classic early-flowering species. Its flowers are typically nodding, bell-shaped and composed of four petal-like sepals. It is an excellent choice for a smaller trellis or obelisk because its habit is generally more restrained than that of the huge C. montana types. Several named cultivars are available in commerce.
Flower color: Blue and violet to pink and white, depending on selection
Pruning Group 1: flowering on stems produced the previous year.
Zones 4–9, depending on selection.
Best use: small obelisks, tuteurs and early-season trellises.
Below: C. alpina 'Pink Princess' , a semi-double flowering variety, on Orangery Trellis
Below: C. alpina 'Constance' photo courtesy Ball Horticulture
Below: C. alpina and C. macropetal hybrid 'Purple Surprise' on pillar
Clematis macropetala: Double and Semi-Double Spring Flowers
Another excellent early-season species, C. macropetala produces charming nodding flowers with layered, petal-like sepals. The flowers have a distinctly graceful, almost lantern-like appearance, making C. macropetala especially attractive when trained over a small arch or through a cottage-garden planting.
Flower colors include lavender-blue, violet, pink and white.
Pruning Group 1 clematis, so it blooms on old wood and is pruned only after flowering when necessary.
Zones 3–9, depending on cultivar.
Best use: smaller arches, obelisks and trellises in cottage or woodland-edge gardens.
Clematis montana: A Spring Cloud of Flowers
If you want a dramatic spring display on a large structure, Clematis montana is difficult to beat. Unlike the huge individual flowers of many modern hybrids, C. montana produces masses of smaller, four-petaled flowers, many of which are fragrant. The species is exceptionally vigorous and can reach 16–40 feet, making it suitable for substantial arches, pergolas and large trellises—not small obelisks.
Flower color: white, pink or rose, often with contrasting yellow stamens.
Pruning Group 1, blooms on old wood
Zones 6–9
Best use: large arches, pergolas and very substantial trellises.
Clematis texensis: Tulip-Shaped Flowers
Texas clematis, also called scarlet leather flower, is particularly distinctive. Instead of the broad, flat flowers associated with many hybrid clematis, C. texensis produces thick, leathery, bell- or tulip-shaped flowers. The species reaches approximately 6–9 feet tall and 2–3 feet wide, making it a useful choice for smaller vertical structures.
Flower Color: scarlet or red-orange exterior, while the interior can show cream, yellow or pinkish tones
Pruning Group 3, flowering on new wood
Zones 4–8
Best use: smaller obelisks and informal trellises.
Clematis viticella: Long-Blooming Summer Color
Italian clematis, C. viticella, is one of our favorite groups for gardeners who want abundant summer and fall flowers with relatively easy pruning. The species produces numerous bell- or star-like flowers followed by attractive silky seed heads. Individual flowers are generally smaller than those of large-flowered hybrids, but they are produced generously on plants approximately 10–16 feet. It is also notably resistant to clematis wilt.
Flower color: purple, lavender
Pruning Group 3, flowering on new wood; responds well to hard pruning in late winter or early spring
Zones 4–8
Best use: arches, large obelisks and trellises
This species is also the parent of numerous beloved cultivars, including:
'Betty Corning'
- 'Etoile Violette'
- 'Polish Spirit'
- 'Madame Julia Correvon'
- 'Venosa Violacea'
- 'Purpurea Plena Elegans'
Clematis virginiana: A Native Cloud of White
For gardeners interested in native plants, C. virginiana is a particularly useful North American species. It produces masses of small, fragrant white flowers in branched clusters from July through September. A dioecious species, female plats can subsequently develop the characteristic silky, feathery seed heads often associated with "old man's beard." The foliage is compound and the plant is a rapid, dense climber tolerating conditions ranging from full sun to shade.
Flower Color: white
Pruning Group 3
Zones (3)6-8 (may die back but resprout from the roots in colder zones)
Best use: pergolas, arches, large trellises in naturalistic gardens, woodland edges and informal gardens
Clematis for Specific Situations
When choosing a clematis for an arch, trellis, rose pillar or obelisk, we recommend looking beyond flower color. Mature height, flowering season, pruning type, hardiness and flower form all determine whether a particular clematis will be successful on a structure.
- Small trellises/obelisks in containers: Choose a variety that grows no more than 6' and a container with a minimum 18" diameter. Evison hybrids are more recent introductions that focus on compact size and floriferous habit and are particularly well-suited for containers.
- Small structure: Choose a compact 4–8 foot clematis.
- Medium structure: Look for a 6–12 foot cultivar.
- Large arch or pergola: Consider vigorous species and hybrids reaching 10–30 feet or more.
Consult the chart below for recommendations for clematis for different garden situations.
- Our choices are based on a combination of ease of growth and longer flowering periods, as well as color, form, and availability in the marketplace.
- Shade tolerance and flower fragrance are in bold where applicable.
Chart of Recommended Clematis Varieties for Trellises, Pillars, Arches, & Pergolas
Image/Name | Zone/Pruning Group | Height x Width | Bloom Period | Flower Color | Flower Features | Other Features | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
C. alpina (Alpine clematis)  | Z 4-9* Group 1 | 6-10' x 3-6' | Spring | Blue, violet, pink, white | Nodding bells, 2" wide | Silvery seed heads in summer; prefers part shade | Small to medium trellis or pillar, especially shadier sites |
C. macropetala (Downy clematis)  | Z 3-9* Group 1 | 8-12' x 3-6' | Spring | Blue, violet, pink, white | Nodding, lantern-like; often double or semi-double; 2" wide | Early blooming; fluffy seedheads; tolerates shadier sites | Trellis or small arch; especially cottage gardens and woodland edges |
C. montana (Anemone clematis)  | Z 6-9 Group 1 Photo by Andrew Dunn, cropped | 16-40' x 8-15' | Late spring - early summer | White, Pink | 1 to 2" wide, 4-petaled, in masses | Some are fragrant; tolerates partial shade | Pergola or very large arch |
C. montana 'Mayleen'  | Z 6-9 Group 1 Photo by Ulf Eliasson, cropped | 20-30'; exremely vigorous! | Spring | Deep Pink | 3 inch; vanilla fragrance | Bronzy-purple new foliage; tolerates shadier sites | Pergola or very large arch |
C. texensis - Scarlet leather flower  | Z 4-8 Group 3 | 6-9' x 2-3' | Summer-fall | Red, red-orange with cream, yellow, or pink interior | Leathery, bell-shaped; fluffy seedheads | Tough US native; no more than half day sun preferred and requires excellent drainage. Bottom 2 feet usually bare. | Small to medium obelisk or narrow trellis; woodland or partially shaded cottage garden settings |
C. virginiana (Sweet Autumn clematis)  | Z 3-8 Group 3 Photo by Helena Jacoba, cropped | 15-20' (Note that this is NOT the same as the invasive C. terniflora, also called Sweet Autumn clematis) | Mid-summer - early fall | White | Small, fragrant, in masses | Native species; tolerates even heavy shade; fast growing | Pergola, large arch or trellis |
C. viticella  | Z 4-8 Group 3 Photo by Jeangagnon, cropped | 10-16' | Summer-fall | purple, lavender | smaller (2") but generoulsy produced; bell or star-like | Resistant to clematis wilt; many popular hybrids have C. viticella heritage | Arches, large trellises and pillars |
'Blue Angel'  | Zones 4-11 Group 3 aka 'Blekitny Aniol' Photo by F.D. Richards | 10-12' | Summer | Lavender-blue | 3 to 5 inches with textured ribs and ruffled edges | Easy and fast, free-flowering grower | Arch, large trellis or pillar |
'Betty Corning'  | Z 3-11 Group 3 | 6-10' | Summer-early fall | Pale lavender | 2-3", bell-shaped, pendulous; light, sweet fragrance | C. viticella hybrid | Medium pillar or small arch; where a delicate, informal look and/or frangance preferred |
'Burning Love'  | Z 5-11 Group 3 Photo courtesy Plants Nouveau | 6-9' x 18-24" | Summer-fall | Red | 3-4 inch | C. viticella hybrid. long blooming season | Best red for small to medium pillar or trellis; small arch |
'Crystal Fountain'  | Z 4-9 Group 2 | 5-7' x 3-4' | Late spring-early summer; may repeat late summer-early fall | Light violet blue | 4-5" semi-double with feathery pale green centers | Evison hybrid | Small pillar or trellis; containers |
'Duchess of Albany'  | Z 4-8 Group 3 | 8-12' x 3-6' | Midsummer- early fall | Deep pink with darker bands | Outward/upward facing tulip-shaped with slightly recurved tips | C. texenis hybrid, about 1890; golden seedheads | Medium to large pillar/trellis or medium arch |
'Etoile Violette'  | Z 4-11 Group 3 | 9-13 ' | Summer | Dark velvety purple with creamy anthers | 3 inches; more flowers at peak than 'Polish Spirit' but generally shorter bloom period | C. viticella hybrid | Medium to large pillar or small arch |
'Jackmanii Superba'  | Z4-8 | 10-12' | Spring-fall | Rich purple | up to 5" wide | Vigourous with season long floral display | Large trellis or pillar, medium to large arch |
'Huldine'  | Z 4-11 Group 3 | 10-14' | Midsummer-fall | Pearl white with slight pale mauve edging | 4 inches wide; buds appear mauve due to purple striping on underside of tepals | Longer blooming white variety than the popular 'Henryii' but flowers a bit smaller | Medium pillar, trellis; small to medium arch |
'Lindsay'  | Z 4-9 Group 2/3 | 3-4' x 2-3' | Late spring to mid-summer with repeat in early fall | Deep purple-blue with red anthers | 4-6" wide | Evison compact patio hybrid | Very small pillar or trellis; containers |
'Nelly Moser'  | Z 4-8 Group 2 | 6-10' x 6-10' | Late spring-early summer; may repeat | Pale pink with deep pink central bars | 5-6" wide or more | One of the best large-flowering varieties for shadier sites | Small arch or medium trellis or pillar |
'Niobe'  | Z 4-9 Group 2/3 Photo courtesy Greenleaf Nursery | 7-10' x 2-3' | Late spring-early fall | Very deep garnet red maturing to wine-red | 5-6 inch with contrasting pale gold anthers | Introduced 1975; deepest color in light shade | Medium pillar or trellis |
'Piilu'  | Z 4-9 Group 2/3 | 4-6' with narrow habit | Late spring-midsummer; may repeat early fall | Two-toned pink | 3-4 inch; semi to double on old wood, single on new wood | Heavy bloomer; may bloom continously in cooler climates | Small pillar or trellis; containers |
'Polish Spirit'  | Z 3-11 Group 3 | 8-10' | Midsummer-fall | Dark purple-blue with slight reddish-purple bars and dark red anthers | 3-4 inch; slightly larger than 'Etoile Violette' | C. viticella hybrid, 1980s; considered one of the easiest to grow | Medium arch or large pillar or trellis |
'Princess Diana'  | Z 4-8 Group 3 Photo by AC, cropped | 6-8' x 3-6' | Summer-early fall | Deep Pink | Tulip-shaped, 2-3" wide | Very long blooming season; hybrid of C. texenis | Small to medium sized pillar/trellis or small arch |
'Purpurea Plena Elegans'  | Z 3-11 Group 3 | 8-12' x 3-6' | Midsummer-early fall | Smoky reddish-purple | Fully double, pom-pom shaped | C. viticella hybrid developed about 1900; RHS award winner | Medium arch; large pillar or trellis |
'Samaritan Jo'  | Z 4-9 Group 2 or 3 Photo by F. D. Richards | 4-6' x 2-4' | Late spring-fall | White to silvery pink with purple center and edges | 4-6" wide; single or semi-double | Evison hybrid; partial shade keeps flowers from fading | Small pillar or narrow trellis; containers; long blooming |
'Sweet Summer Love'  | Z 4-9 Group 3 | 10-15' x 6-10' | Midsummer-fall; earlier than typical sweet autumn clematis types | Cranberry-purple maturing to deep purple | 1-2" wide but abundant with cherry-almond-vanilla fragrance | Hybrid with C. terniflora traits (sweet autumn clematis) | Arches, large pillar or trellis; long blooming |
'Taiga'  | Z 6-9 Group 3 | 6-8' | Early summer-early fall | Royal purple with lime-green tips that mature to white | 2-5 inch, fully double blooms that resemble passion flowers | Afternoon shade in hot climates will preserve flower color | Medium pillar or trellis, especially where long blooming period is needed |
'Venosa Violacea'  | Z 4-9 | 8-12' x 2-5' | Misummer-early fall | Violet with wide pale lilac central bars | 4 to 5 inch wide | C. viticella hybrid, 1883; heavy bloomer | Medium pillar or trellis; small arch |
Note: Our plant recommendations are only suggestions, and may not be appropriate for your particular area. Always consult your local cooperative extension service, master gardener's program, or state natural resources department for information on what plants may be invasive in your location. Thank you!
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