When thinking of pollinators, images of bees and butterflies flitting and flying through a blossom-laden garden on a lazy summer afternoon come to mind. Bright zinnias and coneflowers, spectacular dahlias and sunflowers, serenely blue salvias and catmint, pastel shades of phlox and cosmos—these are just a few of our favorites that provide seasonal sustenance for these little helpers.
But did you know that many pollinators arrive in our gardens much earlier? Many species of wild native bees and pollinating flies emerge from “hibernation” (the correct term in insects is “diapause”) in early spring, some of which only live for a few weeks. Bumblebee queens awaken early, searching out food to create "bee bread" for their larvae. Several species of overwintering butterflies pupate at this time. Honeybees can be active on mild days throughout the winter. These creatures can benefit from our help as well, so we’ve put together some tips to help you help them!
- Leave it bee:
Pollinators overwinter in various stages, as diapausing adults, larvae, or pupae. They can be found in leaf litter, standing perennial stems, under logs, etc. Many early emerging bees live in soil burrows. It’s best to wait until temperatures are a solid 50 degrees to give them a chance to “wake up.” If you can’t wait that long but still want to give the creatures a fighting chance, consider piling everything in an out of the way spot until temperatures have warmed. Rake gently and cut stems carefully to minimize the danger.
- Leave it natural:
For the same reasons as above, leave as much as you can in place over winter. Only remove foliage and stems where disease or insects are an issue. It’s ok to leave the leaves except in situations where they may mat down and smother existing plants. If you must make the front yard presentable for the neighbors, perhaps allow the back yard to remain more natural.
- Bee a landlord:
Mason and other solitary bees will nest in prepared houses consisting of cylindrical holes of the correct length and width, with the back end closed. Houses should be thoroughly cleaned in the fall to prevent disease, and if using cardboard tubes the old ones should be discarded and replaced. Try painting your bee homes and/or the end of tubes blue, yellow or white as bees visualize these colors better and the pattern recognition provides a navigation aid.
- Make some mud:
Orchard bees use mud to seal the ends of their nest tubes, so leaving a saucer filled with mud or keeping a small muddy area will help them out, especially if the season is dry.
- Dandelions are dandy (sort of):
Don’t mow while the early dandelions, clover and other “lawn flowers” are in bloom—these are a primary source of food for many early pollinators, especially emerging queen bumblebees. Do mow before they set seed to prevent their spread. However, they are not the best source of protein for bees as compared to other early blooming plants. So we’re not encouraging growing more dandelions, just leaving the ones that may pop up, especially if other food sources are scarce in your location.
- Imperfection is perfect:
Get over the whole perfect lawn thing. That lush sea of green has come to be a status symbol we can no longer afford, left over from a less environmentally aware era. Minimize the use of lawn chemicals and opt for organic solutions whenever you can. Don’t completely eradicate weeds like clover and dandelions that pollinators depend upon. Be sure to choose the best type of lawn grass for your climate and location and mow properly, not cutting too often or too short. Look for lawn substitutes that can reduce chemical and water use. A little imperfection is perfect for pollinators.
- Night lights affect nightlife:
Change out nighttime white lighting for yellow or warm spectrum LED bulbs. White light can affect the breeding and feeding habits of insects, as well as causing them to swarm which makes them easy prey.
- Prepare a spring feast:
Add some early blooming plants to your landscape. Here’s a list of recommended species:
Large Trees:
Red Maple (Acer rubrum): One of the first trees to bloom in the spring—very important for pollinators; grows in average conditions but tolerates wet soil or periodic flooding; 30-40 ft; red to orange fall color.
Liriodendron (Tulip tree): intriguing pale yellow tulip-shaped flowers; suitable only for large properties
Small Trees:
Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis): sun to pt sun; up to 15 ft; bright purple-pink flowers and heart-shaped foliage; one of the most attractive small native ornamental trees; new cultivars have gold, purple, or even variegated foliage.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.): sun; 6 to 20 feet depending on species; excellent fall color; edible berries; usually grown as multi-stemmed clump—consider instead of non-native crape myrtle.
Tag Alder (Alnus serrulata): 10-15 feet; good for wet spots and rain gardens; interesting catkins
Red buckeye (Aesculus pavia): full sun to part shade with protection from afternoon sun in hot climates; tolerates clay soil; 12-15’ height and spread, usually grown as a multi-stem clump; long showy panicles of red flowers in spring.
Shrubs & Vines:
Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.): sun to part sun; moist, well-drained acidic soil; 4-6 ft, some smaller; red fall foliage; plant 2-3 different cultivars that bloom at the same time to increase fruiting; a beautiful landscape plant—don’t relegate this to the food garden!
Blueblossom (Ceanothus thrysiflorus): broadleaf evergreen for zones 7 to 10, depending on variety; sun; 4-12 feet; blue spring flowers.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin): part sun/dappled shade; 6 to 10 feet; yellow flowers, fragrant foliage, red berries, tolerates wet soil.
Pussy Willow (Salix discolor): Can grow in average soil and tolerates wet soil; sun; grows quickly 6-15 ft but easily pruned; one of the most important plants for early pollinators; male and female flowers on separate plants, only males product the familiar large catkins; be sure to plant native species and not just any “willow.”
Dwarf fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii) : full sun to part shade with protection from afternoon sun in hot climates; 2-3 feet; fragrant white bottlebrush flowers in early spring; blue-green summer foliage and excellent fall color; very desirable native shrub, yet not well-known
Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia): Sun to part shade; average soil; upright habit 6 to 10 feet; white spring flowers, red fall berries, excellent fall color; undemanding plant
Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens): Evergreen to semi-evergreen vine; sun to part sun; will sprawl or climb with support up to 20 feet; bright yellow flowers early spring
Perennials:
Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium): Part sun; Tall flower spikes in shades of blue, mounding fern-like foliage, some variegated cultivars
Violets (Viola spp.): Commonly found in lightly shaded moist areas—a good “weed” to leave
Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia): Cultivars can be clumping or spreading; nice groundcover for shady area; bottlebrush type flowers in pink or white; attractive foliage usually marked with maroon or silver.
Phlox spp: Most familiar are the needle-leafed groundcover (P. subulata) varieties in white, blue, purple and pink, commonly called “moss phlox.” These are excellent for covering sunny slopes or cascading over a stone wall; must have well-drained soil and sun. Not as familiar are the shadier types (P. divaricata and P. stolonifera), “creeping phlox,” and “woodland phlox,” respectively. These are also spreading but up to a foot in height with large flower clusters in the same range of shades. Beautiful color for the spring shade garden and easily grown.
Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum): spreading, about 1’ tall, good for weaving in and around taller plants; flowers in pink, white, or pale blue shades
Green and Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum): excellent groundcover with gold flowers
Eastern Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Intriguing red and yellow spurred flowers; part sun to part shade; about 15”; naturalizes well.
Blue Indigo: (Baptisia): sun, 3-4 feet wide and high, almost shrub-like proportions; attractive pea-shaped flowers, blue-green foliage and interesting seed pods.
Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana): Sun to part sun; common blue flowering form often considered a weed (so leave the flowers as long as you can if it pops up). 1-2 ft, semi-trailing or floppy in shade. Cultivars have blue, purple, white, or pink flowers.
Bellwort (Uvularia spp.): light to medium or dappled shade; approx. 1-2’in upright clumps; yellow hanging bell-shaped flowers in early spring
Spring Ephemerals: These native wildflowers go dormant after blooming. Several of these are pollinated by “specialist” bees—bees that feed only on those plants. These can be found at retail more and more often—there are several reputable native wildflower nurseries online. Be sure that plants being sold are NOT wild collected!
Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis)
Hepatica spp.
Mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum)
Twinleaf (Jeffersonia diphylla)
Spring Beauty (Claytonia spp.)
Dutchman’s Breeches (Dicentra culcullaria)
Trout Lily (Erythronium americana)
Trillium spp.
Virgina Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)
Bulbs:
Crocus & Muscari: These have both been shown to be attractive to early pollinators; visited by honeybees on warm winter days. Add them to your grassy areas if you can let the foliage die back some before mowing.
Snowdrops (Galanthus)
Winter Aconite (Eranathis hyemalis)
Fritillaria