Winter containers bring color, texture, and structure to porches, patios, entryways, and other outdoor spaces when much of the garden is dormant. While summer planters often feature abundant flowers, winter displays can rely on evergreen foliage, contrasting textures, colorful branches, berries, and decorative accents to remain attractive through the colder months.

Upright conifers create a strong vertical element in winter containers. They work especially well in tall planters flanking an entrance or as the central feature in a mixed arrangement.

• 'Jantar' Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis): Zones 4-9; 10-15' high x 3-4' wide; narrow, upright; yellow-green in summer, warming to amber in winter

• 'Fluffy' Arborvitae (Thuja plicata):  Zones 5-8; 10-15' high x 4-6' wide; upright pyramidal; golden yellow all year 
• 'Franky Boy' Arborvitae (Thuja orientalis/Platycladus orientalis): Zones 5-9; grows slowly to 4-6' high x 3-4' wide; upright teardrop shape; lime-green with yellow tips in summer turning bronzy in winter; stringy foliage that droops on the ends for a soft and wispy appearance; can be lightly sheared for a neater shape if desired
• 'Black Dragon' Cryptomeria: Zones 6-9; grows slowly (but faster in youth) 6' high x 3' wide; dense, irregularly pyramidal to broad upright; very dark green with light green new growth; artistically sculptural at maturity, but this may be lost with very young plants--still, quite texturally appealing
• Pencil Point Juniper (Juniperus communis 'Compressa'): Zones 3-6, may struggle with heat and humidity farther south; very slow growing, 3-6' high x 1-1.5' wide; narrow, upright; dense juvenile foliage, silvery blue-green to bronze-copper in winter
• 'Blue Arrow' Juniper (J. scopulorum): Zones 4-9; 12-15' x 2-3'; very narrow, columnar habit; powdery silver-blue all year
• 'Blue Point' Juniper (J. chinensis): Zones 4-9, better for the south than others; slowly to 10-12' x 5-6'; tightly pyramidal; blue-green all year
• 'Moonglow' Juniper (J. scopulorum): Zones 3-7; slowly to 15-20' x 6-8'; broad pyramid at maturity, more upright when young; bright silvery blue, even more vivid in winter
• 'Wichita Blue' Juniper (J. scopulorum): Zones 3-7; slowly to 10-15' x 4-6'; pyramidal at maturity, upright when young; powder blue all year with a looser, more feathery look
• Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica'): Zones 2-8; slowly to 8' high x 5' wide; very densely pyramidal--the perfect little outdoor Christmas tree; deep green short needles with light green new growth; 'Tiny Tower' is a smaller cultivar, growing 4-6' high x 2' wide; see more info below under "Spruce"
• 'Stonehenge' Yew (Taxus x media) Zones 4-7,  10' tall x 4' wide, columnar; dark green with lighter green new growth.  'Stonehenge Skinny' grows 6-8' high x 1' wide, so is a better choice long-term, but very young plants may not have much presence.

Vase-shaped conifers can be a thriller, filler, or spiller depending on the size of the plant and the container. They can be wide-spreading, but the ascending branches offer more height than traditional groundcover evergreens.They lend a graceful air as compared to stiff, rounded shapes and flatter trailing types, and companion plants can be tucked between and underneath the branches for an integrated look.

• 'Blue Vase' Juniper (J. chinensis): Zones 4-9; 4-5' high x 3-4' wide; upright vase shape; steel blue all year

• 'Angelica Blue' Juniper (J. chinensis): Zones 4-9; 3-5' high x 6-10' wide; wide spreading, loose vase shape; lacy, feathery, bright silvery-blue with slight purple coloration in winter
• 'Limeglow' Juniper: Zones 3-9; grows very slowly to 1-2' high x 3-4' wide; spreading vase with slightly ascending branches; feathery lime green to chartreuse in summer becoming an attractive coppery orange to plum in winter

Low-growing conifers help soften the edges of a planter and create a more natural, layered appearance. They are particularly effective when paired with an upright centerpiece. Their foliage can extend toward the edge of a pot, helping visually connect the centerpiece with the surrounding plants.

Allow enough space for the selected variety to spread without crowding neighboring plants. A trailing habit does not necessarily mean a plant will remain small; check its expected width as well as its height.

• Dwarf Japanese Garden Juniper (J. procumbens 'Nana'): Zones 4-9; 6-12" high x 3-6' wide; low, mounding, layered spreading/trailing habit; blue-green whorled juvenile foliage, sometimes with slight bronze-purplish winter tones.  Note that both J. procumbens, which grows 20-30" high and J. procumbens 'Nana' may be available, so read your labels carefully and pray the grower didn't mix them up. 'Greenmound' is similar at 8" high, and 'Variegated' bears blue-green foliage with gold streaks.

• 'Blue Pacific' and 'Gold Pacific'/'All Gold' Juniper (J. conferta--Shore Juniper): Zones 5-9; 6-12' high x 3-6' wide; spreading, trailing; foliage soft and feathery, 'Blue Pacific'--blue-green to steel blue, 'Gold Pacific'--bright gold new growth with orange or coppery-pink tones in winter; these are very tough plants often used in parking lot medians
• 'Blue Rug' Juniper (J. horizontalis): Zones 3-9; 4-6" high x 6-8' wide; flat, long-spreading branches; vibrant steel blue with plum/purple/bronze tones in winter
• 'Icee Blue' Juniper (J. horizontalis): Zones 3-9; 4" high x 8' wide; flat, spreading/trailing, but denser/fuller effect than 'Blue Rug'; icy blue color all year
• 'Mother Lode' Juniper (J. horizontalis): Zones 3-9; 4" high x 8' wide; flat, spreading/trailing; bright gold in summer with plum and amber tones in winter
• 'Good Vibrations Gold' Juniper (J. horizontalis): Zones 3-9; 1' high x 4-5' wide; dense, layered cushion; soft chartreuse needles in spring becoming bright gold in summer and bronze-orange in winter

Spreading conifers that are not junipers do exist, but they tend to be more difficult to source.

While there are some conifers that will accept wet soils, they tend to be the deciduous species.  The evergreen species listed here will require good drainage, but that is something container gardens should have as a rule and it does not preclude mixing them with many other plants. All the varieties here will grow in full sun, some will accept or appreciate partial shade. For true shade conditions (less than 4 hours of direct sun), look to yews (Taxus), Siberian cypress (Microbiota decussata), or plum yews (Cephalotaxus harrintonii) if a conifer is desired.

The typical arborvitae bears flattened sprays of green foliage on an upright, pyramidal, or rounded plant, and is hardy in zones 3 to 8. Some types are less cold tolerant, and may exhibit gold or bronze coloration, a soft, fluffy appearance or stringy, cord-like leaves. Many will turn attractive shades of orange to bronze in winter. Grow in moist well-drained soil in full sun for densest growth and best color, but they adapt well to partial sun. The majority of Thuja are not deer resistant.

Cryptomeria can add soft texture and an elegant, sculptural form to winter containers, but most are not as cold tolerant as other conifers. Compact cultivars such as ‘Globosa Nana’ develop rounded, mounding shapes, while more upright selections provide height and structure. Their soft, needle-like foliage is typically green but may take on bronze or reddish tones in cold weather, adding seasonal interest. Grow in full sun (for best color) to part sun in moist, well-drained soil. Generally deer resistant, with good salt tolerance for coastal applications.

Junipers are quite variable, from low and spreading to tall upright and everything in between. Juvenile foliage is sharp and needle-like, becoming softer and flat at maturity in most species, but some, such as 'Blue Star' retain the unique juvenile foliage permanently. 

Most spruce are not suitable for container gardening, with one notable exception. The ubiquitous Dwarf Alberta Spruce is the undisputed container champion, known for its slow growth rate, uniform pyramidal shape, excellent cold tolerance, and tough consititution. It is also one of the easiest to source in smaller pots. It's as popular at the holidays trimmed with red bows and lights as it is manning the containers next to the pumps at the gas station, with good deer resistance, too. You'll also find it trimmed into pom-pom and spiral topiary.

Its only real drawback is its propensity to harbor spider mites, which can eventually turn the plant into a dry, brown skeleton. Mites can be treated successfully; however, when the browning begins the most common reaction is to start drowning it with water instead, killing it twice as fast. My advice: check it every month during the growing season by holding a piece of white paper under the branches and brushing or tapping them sharply in several spots. If you look closely and see small spots that move, treat for mites. If you catch it before any browning starts you and Dwarf Alberta can have a long and happy life together.

Give it full to partial sun and provide excellent air circulation to help avoid those mites--don't stick it deep in a corner close to the walls or you might be asking for trouble. At the nursery, we also rountinely sprayed these with water in addition to regular irrigation in warm springs and summers, as mites thrive under dry conditions.

Yews are valuable in containers for their deep green color, slow growth rate, and shade tolerance. They are also the easiest to prune, even tolerating hard pruning when necessary. Grow in full sun to shade, in moist, well-drained soil. Deer find them very tasty, so beware.

A successful winter container combines contrasting forms, foliage colors, and textures without becoming overcrowded. Begin by choosing a conifer that fits the container and the intended location, then select companion plants that complement its shape.

For a formal entrance or a symmetrical arrangement, choose an upright conifer and plant it in a substantial container. Repeat the same variety in matching planters on either side of a doorway or path.

A rounded conifer works well in a low round or square container, particularly when surrounded by plants with finer foliage or a trailing habit. In a larger mixed planter, a single evergreen centerpiece can anchor a combination of seasonal plants.

Use foliage color to create contrast even when flowers are scarce. Blue conifers pair well with silver, purple, or green foliage and purple or white violas. Golden junipers brighten dark green evergreens and look particularly effective in gray, charcoal, or deep brown planters. 

For a restrained design, limit the palette to two or three main foliage colors. For a more exuberant arrangement, combine green, gold, and blue foliage with colorful seasonal flowers.

Arrange plants at different heights to create depth:

Tall: An upright arborvitae or juniper provides the main vertical element.

Medium: Rounded conifers or compact evergreen perennials fill the middle of the arrangement.

Low and trailing: Spreading junipers and suitable groundcovers soften the rim of the container.

Leave enough room for each plant to develop. Overplanting may produce an instantly full display, but crowded roots and foliage can make it harder to maintain the arrangement over time.

Adding cut branches, whether purchased or foraged from your own garden, is a great way to spice up your containers. Simply place the branches into the soil as you would when making a floral arrangement. Cutting branches on a 45 degree angle will make them easier to insert.  Foraged branches should be placed in water overnight and cut just before use. Wilt-Pruf can be sprayed on cut conifer branches to make them last longer in warm locations--misting can be helpful, too.  

For dramatic color and height, try red or gold twig dogwood, pussy willow, curly willow, birch poles, or painted branches. If painting foraged branches, priming is recommended to avoid the raw wood merely soaking up the paint. 

For textural filler, use magnolia, nandina, pine, cryptomeria, yew, spruce, juniper, or fir. The trimmings from the bottom of your Christmas tree are perfect for this, so ask for them!

For softening edges and a gentle cascading effect, look to cypress, cedar, hemlock, and weeping forms of spruce and arborvitae.

For an extra pop of color, berried stems of holly, mountain ash, and nandina are lovely. 

For a designer look, add natural accents of pine cones, lotus pods, grapevine, or eucalyptus.

Conifers provide the structure, but companion plants can introduce additional foliage textures, flowers, and seasonal interest. Choose plants according to your climate, light exposure, container size, and the expected length of the display.

Several low-growing plants can complement conifers, particularly in larger containers where there is room for a layered arrangement.

Upright: Lavender, Rosemary, Germander, Christmas Fern

Grasses and Grasslike plants: These add fine texture to a container and depending on the rest of the composition can act as thriller, filler, or spiller: Liriope, Carex, Blue Fescue, 'Blue Arrows' Rush, black Mondo grass, Acorus. For shadier containers, hakonechloa is not evergreen, but can last very long into the winter.

Spreading/Trailing: Ajuga, vinca vine, English ivy, Candytuft (Iberis), dwarf winter savory

Ajuga, vinca vine, and English Ivy can be invasive and spread to unwanted areas if they touch the ground and root. English ivy will not flower and seed unless it is allowed to grow vertically, so if it is not allowed to root it can be safely used in a container. Specialty and variegated cultivars of English ivy tend to be much less aggressive, but care needs to be taken that the plants do not escape.  

Mounding: Heuchera, Heucherella, Tiarella, Tassel Fern, Bergenia, Euphorbia cultivars such as 'Miner's Merlot' and ‘Ascot Rainbow’, winter savory (Satureja montana), culinary sages (Salvia officinalis) Berggarten, Tricolor, Purpurascens, Icterina, gray or green Santolina. 

These companion plants are not interchangeable in every climate. Some are more reliably evergreen in mild winters than in colder regions, and plants that survive in the ground may be less hardy when their roots are exposed to freezing temperatures in a pot.

Cool-season annuals are useful for adding flowers and colorful foliage around the base of a conifer. They can be planted in fall for a display that continues through mild winter weather and into spring.

Pansies: Available in a broad range of colors, with faces and solids.  

Violas: Smaller flowers provide a delicate, abundant display that work well to blend strongly rounded compact conifers into the composition.

Ornamental kale and cabbage: Bold, textured foliage in white, purples, and pinks adds a sculptural element and can provide strong color contrast. Plant on an angle for the best presentation.

Dusty Miller: Lacy, upright silver-white foliage

In cold climates, flowers may pause or sustain damage during severe freezes, then resume growth when conditions improve. Use annuals as seasonal companions rather than relying on them for permanent structure.

A conifer can remain attractive for years in a container when its roots have adequate space, the soil drains well, and the plant is suited to the conditions.

1. Choose the Right Container

Select a sturdy planter with drainage holes. The container should be large enough to accommodate the root ball and allow for future growth, but not so oversized that the planting becomes difficult to manage. Consider the material as well as the appearance. Heavy planters provide stability in exposed locations, while lighter containers are easier to move. In climates with freeze-thaw cycles, choose a planter specifically suited to outdoor winter use. Cast stone, fiberglass, fiberstone, and high quality plastics are good choices.

2. Use a Well-Drained Potting Mix

Use a quality potting mix formulated for container plants. For plants requiring sharp drainage, add up to 50% coarse sand or perlite, and refrain from using potting mixes with added moisture retentive properties. Avoid filling the pot with garden soil, which can compact and drain poorly in a container. Do not add a layer of gravel at the bottom in an attempt to improve drainage. Instead, use an appropriate potting mix and keep the drainage holes clear.

3. Position the Conifer Correctly

Loosen the roots after removing from the nursery pot. Place the conifer so that the top of its root ball sits at the appropriate depth, with the root flare visible where applicable. Fill around the roots with potting mix, firm gently, and water thoroughly. If you are planting a mixed container, position the conifer first, then arrange the companion plants around it. Leave adequate space between root balls and avoid burying the crowns of perennials.

4. Water Thoroughly

Water after planting until excess moisture drains from the bottom. Throughout winter, check the soil regularly. Evergreen conifers continue to lose moisture through their foliage, even when growth slows, and roots in containers can dry out during periods of wind or mild weather. Water when the potting mix begins to dry, adjusting for temperature, rainfall, container size, and plant requirements. Do not allow the soil to remain waterlogged.

5. Add a Protective Top Layer

A thin layer of suitable mulch can help moderate moisture fluctuations and protect the root zone. Use pine fines, shredded hardwood, bark chips, small pebbles, or gravel. Keep mulch away from the trunk or main stem, and avoid packing it tightly around the plant.

Conifers are hardy plants, but their roots are more exposed to cold in containers than they would be in the ground. A conifer rated for a particular USDA hardiness zone may need additional protection when grown in a pot, especially in regions with prolonged freezing weather.

Protect Roots From Extreme Cold

The container, its size, and the location all affect how well a potted conifer survives winter. Larger containers generally provide more insulation for roots than small pots. In colder climates, move containers to a sheltered location when practical, group pots together, or insulate the container (inside or out) to reduce rapid temperature fluctuations. Containers on the ground will stay warmer than those on raised decks or patios, as will those situated close to south or east facing walls. Avoid placing a container where it will repeatedly thaw in direct sun and then freeze sharply, if that pattern is common in your area.

Don't Water When Soil is Frozen

If the soil in the container is frozen solid, water cannot be absorbed and may pool and freeze. Don't water until air temperatures rise to 40 degrees and the container has thawed.

Prevent Winter Drying

Cold winds and winter sun can dry evergreen foliage, while frozen potting mix limits the roots' ability to replace lost moisture. Check soil moisture during dry spells and water on milder days when the mix is not frozen and excess water can drain freely. Do not assume a plant needs water simply because the surface looks dry; check the mix below the surface before watering.

Anti-dessicant sprays such as Wilt-Pruf help protect plants sited in windy, dry locations when applied once plants are dormant, usually after a few hard frosts. To avoid damage, arborvitae, juniper, and cypress must not be sprayed until complete dormancy is assured (usually once the ground is frozen solid)--these plants tend to take longer to acheive the dormant state. Note that blue spruce may lose their blue color if anti-dessicants are applied.

It is most important that conifers are kept well-watered in fall before freezing temperatures arrive. Drought stress experienced at this time may encourage cold damage in winter.

Provide Appropriate Sunlight

Most conifers prefer sun or partial sun, but requirements vary by species and cultivar. Rotate containers to ensure even growth and prevent the development of dead zones. This is less important if you plan to use the plant for just the winter season as photosynthesization is significantly reduced.

Don't Fertilize Late in the Season

Do not encourage tender new growth just before winter. Follow the plant's fertilizer requirements and generally reserve routine feeding for the appropriate growing season rather than applying heavy doses late in the year.

A conifer can serve as the permanent anchor of a container while the surrounding plants change with the seasons. This approach allows you to refresh the display without starting from scratch each year.

In spring, replace tired annuals with seasonal flowers or flowering perennials suited to the planter's light conditions. In summer, consider heat-tolerant annuals or foliage plants that complement the conifer's color and form.

If the container becomes crowded, remove or transplant companion plants rather than repeatedly cutting back the conifer to keep it small. Over time, a conifer may outgrow its original pot and need to be moved into a larger container or planted in the landscape, depending on its mature size and growing requirements.

Can conifers survive winter in pots?

Many conifers can overwinter successfully in containers, but their roots are more vulnerable to freezing than roots in the ground. Choose a cultivar rated at least one to two zones colder than your own, and provide additional protection where necessary.

What are the best dwarf conifers for containers?

Compact cultivars of arborvitae, juniper, and spruce are popular options. Dwarf Alberta spruce, ‘Anna's Magic Ball’ arborvitae, and 'Blue Star' and Pencil Point junipers are examples of compact forms that will not quickly outgrow their container. Always verify the mature size and hardiness of the specific cultivar.

Do conifers need watering in winter?

Yes. Evergreen conifers continue to lose moisture in winter, particularly in windy or sunny conditions. Check the soil regularly and water when needed on days when the potting mix is not frozen and drainage is possible.

Can I plant flowers with conifers in a winter container?

Yes. Pansies and violas are popular cool-season companions, while ornamental kale and cabbage and dusty miller provide foliage color. Select plants with compatible light, moisture, and temperature requirements, and leave sufficient room for root growth.

How long can a conifer stay in a container?

That depends on the cultivar, container size, and growing conditions. Slow-growing dwarf varieties may remain in a pot for years, but eventually roots may become crowded or the plant may outgrow the space. Choose a cultivar based on its mature dimensions rather than its size at purchase if you intend it to stay in the container beyond one or two seasons.

What about those miniature evergreens sold at Christmas at garden centers--can I plant those outside in a container?

Yes, if they are conifers hardy in your zone and were already kept outside when you purchased them. If they were housed inside, likely never below 50 degrees, they are not sufficiently hardened off and may be unable to survive the transition to freezing weather. You can attempt to slowly transition them by leaving outside during the day for longer and longer periods--how long this may take depends on the variety and the temperature to which they need to acclimate, but two weeks is the absolute minimum. 

Conifers offer a reliable starting point for winter containers, providing evergreen structure, distinctive forms, and foliage colors that complement seasonal flowers and companion plants. Whether you prefer a formal arrangement with matching upright evergreens or a relaxed combination of a compact conifer, trailing foliage, and colorful violas, the key is to select plants suited to your climate and container.

With thoughtful plant choices, good drainage, and appropriate winter care, a conifer-based container can remain attractive through the cold months and provide a foundation for fresh seasonal displays throughout the year.